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| Photo Credit: dabble.co |
Got a Pinch Flat? Creaky Crankset? We Have Some Great Solutions For Common Issues
1. You fixed a puncture, and the new tube keeps going flat
If
the holes in the tube are in the bottom, the rim strip may be out of
position, allowing the tube to get cut by the spokes. If they're on top,
there may be some small sharp object stuck in the tire. Find it by
running your fingers lightly around the inside of the tire, then remove
it.
2. A remounted tire won't sit right on the rim
Let
the air out, wiggle the bad spot around, reinflate to about 30 psi, and
roll the bad spot into place with your hands. By pushing the tire in
toward the middle of the rim you will be able to see if any of the tube
is poking out. When the tube is fully inside the tire, inflate as
normal.
3. A patch won't stick to the glue on the tube
Apply
more glue and let it dry completely, about five minutes (DO NOT BLOW ON
THE GLUE) When you apply the patch, avoid touching its sticky side with
your fingers.
4. A creaking sound from the wheels
A
spoke may have loosened. If tension is uniform, the sound might be
caused by a slight motion of the spokes against each other where they
cross. Lightly lube this junction, wiping off the excess.
5. A creaking sound when you pedal
Tighten the crankarm bolts. If the arm still creaks, remove it, apply a trace of grease to the spindle, and reinstall the arm.
6. The large chainring flexes, and the chain rubs against the front derailleur cage.
Check for loose chainring bolts
7. You have removed the chainrings to clean the crankset, but now the front derailleur doesn't shift right.
You
may have installed a chainring backward. Remove the rings and put them
on correctly. Usually, the crankarm bolts fit into indentations on the
chainrings. Sight from above too, to make sure there's even spacing
between the rings.
8. While trying to remove or adjust a crankarm you stripped the threads- Now you can't remove it
Ride your bike around the block a few times. The crankarm will loosen and you'll be able to pull it off.
9. Shifter housing rubs the frame, wearing a spot in the frame
Put clear tape beneath the housings where they rub.
10. Noisy sloppy shifting can't be remedied by rear derailleur adjustment
The
cassette lockring might be loose, allowing the cogs to move slightly
and rattle around on the hub. You need a special tool to tighten the
lockring fully, but you can spin it tight enough with your fingers to
ride safely home or to a stop.
11. The cog cassette is getting rusty
A
little rust won't damage the cogs quickly, so it's not a major concern.
Usually, using a little more lube will prevent additional rust, and
riding will cause the chain to wear away the rust while you're pedaling.
12. In certain gears, pedaling cause loud skipping
There
may be debris between the cogs. If you can see mud, grass, leaves,
twigs, or any sort of foreign matter trapped between cogs, dig it out.
It's probably keeping the chain from settling all the way down onto the
cog to achieve a proper mesh. If there's no debris, a cog is probably
worn out. Most often this is a sign that the chain and cassette will
have to be replaced.
13. Front derailleur won't shift precisely to a chainring
Check
that the cage is parallel to the chainrings (when viewed from above),
and loosen and reposition the derailleur if necessary. If it's parallel,
you probably need to adjust the high- and low-limit screws, best done
by a shop or experienced amateur mechanic.
14. The rear derailleur makes a constant squeaking noise
The pulleys are dry and need lubrication. Drip some light lube on the sides, then wipe off the excess.
15. Braking feels mushy, even though the pads aren't worn out
The
cable probably stretched. Dial out the brake-adjuster barrel (found
either on the caliper or on the housing closer to the lever) by turning
it counterclockwise until the pads are close enough to the rim to make
the braking action feel as tight as you want.
16. Braking feels grabby
You
probably have a ding or dent in the rim. This hits the pad every
revolution, causing the unnerving situation. Bring your bike into
Bumstead's. We'll fix it for you.
17. One pad drags against the rim or stays significantly closer to the rim than the other
Before
messing with the brakes, open the quick-release on the wheel, recenter
the wheel in the frame and see if that fixes the problem. (This is the
most common solution.) If the wheel is centered but a pad still rubs,
you need to recenter the brake. On most modern brakesets this is done by
turning a small adjustment screw found somewhere on the side or top of
the caliper. (There may be one screw on each side, as well.) Turn the
screw or screws in small increments, watching to see how this affects
the pad position. If you center the brake and the wheel, and a pad still
drags on the rim, it probably wore unevenly from being misadjusted;
sand the pads flat and recenter everything.
18. With each pedal stroke you hear a click coming from the saddle
The pedal may have loosened. Tighten it.
19. Squealing Brakes
Wipe the rim
to remove any oil or cleaning reside. If this doesn't work, scuff the
pads with sandpaper or a file. Still noisy? The pads need to be
loosened, then toed in; an adjustment that makes the front portion touch
the rim before the back- an easy fix for a shop, a tortuous process for
a first timer.
20. Creaking Saddle
Dip a tiny
amount of oil around the rails where they enter the saddle, and into the
clamp where it grips the rails. Heritage purists take note: Leather
saddles sometimes creak the same way that fine leather shoes can.
There's not much you can do about this.
21. You can never remember which way to turn the pedals
Treat
the right-side pedal normally — righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. The left
side pedal has reverse threads (to keep it from unscrewing during
pedaling). If that's confusing, just remember this simple phrase: Back
off. This can remind you that, with the wrench engaged above the pedal,
you ALWAYS turn toward the back of the bike to remove the pedal.
22. You installed a pedal into the wrong crankarm - The left pedal into the right arm or vice versa
You
can remove the pedal, but the crankarm will have to be replaced; its
threads are softer than the pedal's and are now stripped out. ALWAYS
check the pedals before installing. There is usually an R for right or
an L for left stamped onto the axle.
23. You pulled apart your headset to regrease it, and now the headset feels tight no matter how you adjust it
The bearing retainers are probably in upside down.
We are a Full-Service Shop — Have Repairs Done With Us
1098A Market St.
